The Modernist Beauty
The Modernist Beauty
EXTRAIT D’ATELIER – Maître Céramiste
Scent of damp earth and grey water, kneaded and compact. Muted sounds, patter of raindrops on cement floor, voices. Moulds ready to open, powdered plaster still poised, steady. While the wheel spins, a dance of rhythm and sensuality, skilled hands fashion the shape, tools control and design, wet sponge caresses. The kiln heats, the kiln fires; earth grows strong in its fragile nature.
MIZENSIR – Bois De Mysore
No perfumer has ever worked on sandalwood that way before, from its top, down to its roots.
To bring the freshness and softness of sandalwood leaves, Alberto Morillas uses green cardamom and violet leaf. Sri-Lankan sandalwood speaks for the dense and soft trunk while white musk reminds the roots deeply buried in the ground.
Mineral, earthy, “Bois de Mysore” divulges a lightly powdered and voluptuous whiff.
MiN NEW YORK – Ad Lumen
Ad Lumen, a soft, clear skin scent, is an entirely different kind of fragrance: a simple, but rather haunting, aldehyde rose musk that I find to be like a more futuristic take on Brosseau’s classic Ombre Rose, just without all the powder. Bergamot, Egyptian jasmine, rose, and musks are the listed notes, and while this is certainly not complex, it is extremely long lasting and somewhat memorable, while envincing an alluring – gentle, but obsessional – emotion. Last night, as I turned over in my bed and turned over my sheets and duvet, I could smell Ad Lumen, but not on my hand itself, almost as though it were somewhere beside me but not quite on me. Like Tom Ford’s excellent Jasmine Musk, this is one of those perfumes that while not fascinating or exacting from an artistic point of view, could, on a live person, elicit quite an adhesive reaction.
BOTTEGA VENETA – Parco Palladiano XIII Quadrifoglio
Parco Palladiano XIII Quadrifoglio evokes aromatic herbs, beckoning to scent the breeze. The final composition is subtle yet powerful, with sensual undertones.
“As I crafted Quadrifoglio, I aimed at capturing the unique atmosphere of an early morning in the gardens of the Veneto when nature awakens,” says perfumer Aurelien Guichard. “A delicate mist subtly fades across the horizon melting the vegetal details together with architecture’s lines. I wanted to feel this dewy freshness and natural crispness, and the invigorating breeze of citrus and vegetal texture of basil leaves.”
The pale green juice captures the light, in a perfect reflection: weightless yet enveloping blend of basil, white bergamot, and incense creating a bright radiance on top, lighting up the vegetal texture of fresh aromatic leaves.
LOUIS VUITTON – Orage
The Maître Parfumeur Jacques Cavallier Belletrud created a surprising woody fragrance.
Orage combines the nobility of the Iris with the vegetal freshness of the Vetiver and the heart of a Patchouli leaf.
TERRE D’HERMES – Eau Intense Vetiver
On the horizon, another Terre. Vetiver, inherent to Terre since its origins, is the culmination of this new composition. The initial woody and mineral balance of Terre becomes woody and vegetal.